Canoeing South Africa

Editor’s Note: While much of North America and the rest of the northern hemisphere face the challenges of the dead of winter, the other half of the world is basking in the warmth of midsummer. We thought you might like to see how the other half lives and draws close to the Creator God at this time of the year, so we are sharing the following story of a family canoe trip down a river in South Africa. There are several exciting blessings to share; we hope you enjoy the ride.

When our children were small, our family began to enjoy many outdoor activities together. Instead of giving the children pocket money, we chose to give them experiences in life. While hiking many trails in South Africa, the youngsters learned to love the God of nature.

As a family we also spent many vacations canoeing downstream on the Orange River in South Africa. We would choose a stretch of approximately 80 miles starting where we could easily access the river and finishing the trip where it was convenient to leave the vehicles unattended for five or six days (which amounted to canoeing about 12 to 15 miles per day). Eventually we canoed three such portions of the river covering a total distance of about 240 miles.

During this trip in 1985, we selected a lower segment of the Orange River which stretched from below the Augrabies Falls to the end of the Richters Veld Mountains near the west coast of South Africa. This was semi desert to desert country with the river winding its way through mountains which would sometimes rise right up from the banks of the river. The river, which forms the border between the South African provinces of the Cape and Orange Free State and later between South Africa and Namibia, flows westward from the Drakesberg of Natel in the east. In the lower area, before the Augrabies Falls National Park, the river is extensively used for irrigation of miles upon miles of vineyards which produce many grapes for seedless raisins.

In our canoes we packed our clothes, sleeping gear, tents, pots, food, and repair kit in watertight plastic buckets. We dared not forget our hats to protect us from the sun’s direct rays as well as the reflected rays off the water.

Because we did not know what the terrain was like, and since anything can happen while we are on the river, we always approached a trip like this with mixed feelings. The waters can be calm, or a gentle current can urge us along. Sometimes the rushing water swiftly flows over rocks or causes waves that enter the canoe. Rapids, cataracts, whirlpools, waterfalls, or narrow channels with very swift currents and bends can also be expected.

One of the situations that frightened me the most occurred when we were canoeing along a swift channel with trees and reeds on either side. We heard the sound of some rapids getting louder as we approached, but we were unable to see what was ahead. At a time like this, it is good to recall Isaiah 26:3 "You will keep him in perfect peace, whose mind is stayed on You, because he trusts in You."

This occurred while we were on the Orange River. My wife, Eve, and I were floating ahead of everyone else when we heard the sound of the rapids in the distance. As we came closer and the sound intensity increased, we paddled backwards to keep our canoe from going downstream until our son, Paul, came drifting past. He was the most skilled at handling a canoe and was the scout in our party, so he went ahead to determine how we should negotiate this rapid.

Three other fellows in their kayaks followed him while we strained to hold our position in the current. On the left side were rocks, and on the right side a large boulder protruded about 10 feet out of the water. The water rushed between the rocks and the large boulder as well as around the boulder. Paul went around the boulder and soon appeared happily on the downstream side. Our close friends who joined us on the trip (Jan, Vernie, Paul, and George) followed. We heard some odd sounds and soon saw capsized kayaks and guys swimming in an effort to hold onto their kayaks and make it to the shore.

We felt our strength fading, so drifted down to the boulder. While we held on, Eve managed to climb onto the rock with her camera in a plastic container in one hand. She soon got herself into a favorable position to photograph any worthwhile shots. In the meantime the capsized kayakers swam to shore and were checking their gear. Paul was checking the rapid to find the safest way for us to come through. Eve and I in a double canoe, a friend named Darlene in a single canoe, daughters Rose and Bonita in a double canoe, and daughter Ruth and her friend Ralph in a double canoe were yet to go through the rapid.

My intention was to paddle upstream and to align my canoe with the center of the current on the left hand side of the large rock. I managed to get to the lee side of a rock slightly upstream from the rapid, but the current was too strong for me to go any farther. While I was resting for a moment, the current caught the front end of my canoe and started to swing it around. I realized it would be best not to resist the current, but just let it turn the canoe. When fully turned, I quickly pulled the canoe into the mainstream where Paul indicated I should go. I felt the front end drop, and a wave hit the splash board as water sprayed onto me. Within a matter of seconds I was through the rapid.

Darlene was next in her single canoe. She tried the same maneuver I did, but instead of managing to swing her canoe around, the strong current carried her backwards into the rapid. We all held our breath as anything could happen. She was well positioned entering the rapid, and she quickly shot through still upright and facing upstream. Later Darlene said, "All I did was pray and trust my guardian angel."

Rose and Bonita in their double canoe were next to attempt the raging force. Rose later explained, "As the front of the canoe slid into the glossy awaiting wave, my eyes widened. The power of the water seemed to mock me, but I knew the hand of God was upon us. I was filled with joy and excitement as I had the privilege to experience the thrill of the river’s terrific power." Fortunately, I was able to photograph Rose and Bonita coming through this rapid in fine shape.

Ruth and Ralph were the last to come through this challenging section without a hitch. George had lost one of his canoeing shoes in an incident and needed to make himself a pair of slippers with a strip of high density foam rubber and some chord while Vernie needed to patch the deck of his kayak with plastic tape. While this was happening, two fish eagles came soaring above and found a thermal air current nearby, giving us the opportunity to watch their graceful flight circling higher and higher until we could not follow them any longer. Solomon states in Proverbs 30:18-19, " There are three things which are too wonderful for me, yes, four which I do not understand: the way of an eagle in the air . . . ." As we enjoyed the solace of this sight, I remembered that the rapids of life give us an opportunity to appreciate the comfort of God and His peace which passes all understanding.

Finding a campsite for the evening was not always easy as the banks were often thickly grown with trees. Their branches extended into the water for many yards which meant we had to tie our canoes onto the branches and make our way to the bank through the thick brush. If we found a good campsite early in the afternoon and were satisfied that we had covered sufficient mileage for the day, we would pull onto the bank and set up our camp for the evening.

One afternoon we came upon such a place. A smooth rock protruded into the river, and the water was calm and ideal for landing. With sufficiently even ground to pitch our tents, we all agreed that this spot was ideal for the night. "As the mountains surround Jerusalem, so the Lord surrounds His people from this time forth and forever" (Psalm 125:2) rang true as we felt Gods protection and providence.

Eve had it in her mind to bake us some camp bread that afternoon. She immediately set to work preparing her dough. I was instructed to find a suitable spot for a rock oven and gather a pile of wood. I did this, but the oven I was constructing appeared too small. So I had to start all over again at a different spot a fair distance up the mountain. We found rocks suitably imbedded for an oven so that the surrounding rocks and floor would be hot. When Eve was ready with the dough, which had risen by then, she brought it in one of our cooking pots. We scraped out the unburned wood, and she placed the pot inside. I then put a rock in front as a door. After almost an hour the bread was ready, and we opened the oven door and pulled the bread out. This reminded me of the bread of life­the risen Saviour who came out of the tomb and today is alive in my heart. No one wanted to wait till the next day for a slice of the bread, so Eve cut us each a slice, and it was delicious.

We all enjoyed gently gliding along close to the bank, letting the current carry us, using an occasional paddle stroke to keep the canoe on course, and listening to the birds in the trees. Rose recalls, "I spotted three owls sitting in a row on a willow branch huddling together. They were so close I felt I could touch them. They seemed so vulnerable to me. It made me think of how vulnerable Jesus was when he came as a child to this world. After a few strokes with my paddle, the conviction of God’s great love for me awakened a love in my heart for God and humanity."

Often as I contemplate our experiences on the Orange River, I long to visit again. God has so many blessings in store for His children through the things He has made. And even though I can’t do everything I wish, I hang on to the promise in Psalm 36:8: "They are abundantly satisfied with the fullness of Your house, and You give them drink from the river of Your pleasures."

Gerhard Klix writes from Somerset West, South Africa, where he is retired. He enjoys photography and nature as a means of drawing closer to God the Creator.